It’s gray and damp on my first morning in Bogotá. As a former longtime San Francisco resident, I’m accustomed to these conditions, but even if I were to get gloomy, I’d know exactly where to find a cure: among the flower vendors at the Mercado de Paloquemao. All shades of carnation, orchid, and rose—Colombia grows the second-most roses in the world—burst from the makeshift tables set up in the market’s parking lot. It’s impossible not to feel cheery in the face of all the bright blooms, but I don’t have time to stop and smell the, well, you know. I’m here for the food.